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Whatever the season, fireworks have always been used to mark big events. Photographing these fireworks can be tricky but in this article are some tips to get the best pictures possible.<\/p>\n
Fireworks Photography Fundamental 1 — A Slow Shutter Speed.<\/strong><\/p>\n A skyrocket takes time from the moment it’s launched until the last burst of its color fades. As the rocket sails skyward, the crowd has time to exclaim “Ooh!” Then as it explodes in a burst of trails of color, the crowd has time to exclaim, “Ahh!” From launch to fadeout takes a few seconds perhaps ending with a stirring “bang.” Your exposure, therefore, should be long enough to capture part, or all, of this time-consuming progression.<\/p>\n Shooting with a digital camera is somewhat like shooting slide film. If you’re not careful, you can overexpose and lose detail and color in the highlights. Since fireworks are, by definition, highlights, using a digital camera to capture them can be tricky.<\/p>\n How long should your exposures for fireworks photos be? At least one second, sometimes two seconds, and some even longer. Shorter exposures don’t always capture the full burst and longer exposures tend to produce washed-out results. For example, if you were to set your exposure for, say, 1\/500th, not only will the lens be open for only a fraction of the rocket’s progression, but the exposure may also be too brief to record any image at all! If you have a B (Bulb) shutter speed setting you can use it to control exactly how long your shutter is open. This is a great option. The trick is to open the shutter right at the beginning of the burst and close it when it reaches its peak. Anticipating the explosion can be difficult, but not impossible. If you don’t have a B setting you can choose a fixed setting, such as 1 second.<\/p>\n The best way to tackle a long exposure will depend primarily on what kind of camera you’re using. Let’s examine how this works with different types of cameras.<\/p>\n DSLR Cameras<\/strong><\/p>\n It’s easy for you to select a long exposure time using a DSLR (digital single lens reflex) camera. If you’re using a manual mode, you can select a long exposure time by setting the shutter for one-to-thirty seconds or by using the B (or bulb) setting. You can also use the shutter priority mode to control the shutter speed. For the bulb setting you will need a cable release.<\/p>\n Digital Point-and-Shoot Models<\/strong><\/p>\n You’ve got to hand it to camera designers — they’ve dreamed up a number of exotic modes that appear on some camera models. What exactly is “party mode?” That’s outside the scope of this article, but there are a few cameras which feature a “fireworks mode” that will give a long exposure. Don’t worry if your camera doesn’t feature a whole host of “modes.” Most of them are baby steps for inexperienced photographers. If your camera has manual settings — which most digital point-and-shoot models have, just figure it out using the manual or trial-and-error going through the menus.<\/p>\n Fireworks Photography Fundamental 2 — Choosing the right aperture.<\/strong><\/p>\n What aperture should you use? Your f-stop will be based on the ISO you select.<\/p>\n You might think that because the sky is so dark you need a wide aperture. Just the opposite is true. Remember, your objective is not to record the dark sky except as background. You want to record the intensely bright streaks of color. Were you to use a wide open aperture during your time-exposure, you would probably overexpose the colors. Result: They would “burn out” and lose coloration. To intensify the color, therefore, use a smaller aperture like f\/8, or f\/11, or even f\/16. As with your choice of shutter speed, you will have to set your aperture manually. Which you should use depends upon your digital camera’s ISO setting (or the speed of your film), and the intensity of the color bursts. We suggest you bracket your shots, using different apertures.<\/p>\n Using one of the suggested apertures listed below, you can use your preview to test and then compensate the aperture accordingly.<\/p>\n ISO SETTING APERTURE RANGE<\/p>\n ISO 100 ƒ\/8 to 16<\/p>\n ISO 200 ƒ\/11 to 22<\/p>\n ISO 400 ƒ\/16 to 22<\/p>\n This chart will work with most digital cameras that allow you to set shutter speed and aperture. Most of the sophisticated digital point-and-shoot models permit the photographer to set these controls. If you’ve never done this before, you’ll have to figure out how to use these controls by looking at your camera’s instruction book. If you’re using a digital SLR, then try these settings too. Naturally, you’ll check your results by reviewing your initial photos on your camera’s LCD panel, until you get the exposure that looks best.<\/p>\n Fireworks Photography Fundamental 3 — Setting the ISO<\/strong><\/p>\n Typically, noise\/grain is not a problem in this type of image. We recommend that you use ISO 200, or 400. The important point is that you don’t need a very fast ISO; in fact super-fast ISOs may overexpose the firework display. Very slow ISOs – for example, ISO 100 – may not be sensitive enough to capture the display. (Remember, while your shutter will be open for a second or two or more, the actual appearance of the “rockets red glare” will last only a fraction of a second in any one place.)<\/p>\n <\/p>\n